P0102 and the car that drives better unplugged
Here is the diagnostic gift hidden in this code: unplug the MAF and drive. The ECU notices the sensor is gone and falls back to a substitute model built from throttle position and rpm. If the car runs *better* unplugged, you have just proven the sensor was feeding bad data — it, or its circuit, is your fault. If it runs the same or worse, stop blaming the sensor.
If the sensor has power and ground but the signal is dead or erratic, look at its history before replacing it: an oiled aftermarket air filter, over-oiled at last service, coats the sensing element with a film that kills the signal. That is a cleaning candidate — sensor-safe MAF cleaner only, no touching the element. A sensor that failed with a dry, standard filter in place is more likely genuinely dead.
And check the simple thing everyone skips: the wiring between the airbox and the loom flexes with every engine rock. Wiggle it at idle and watch the g/s reading for dropouts.
Attachments
Information, not instruction
CarGeek is a reference, not a service manual. Its pages are written from public sources and from what other people have found, never from a manufacturer's own service information, so they can be wrong or incomplete for your particular vehicle. Some of what they describe carries real risk: high voltage, fuel under pressure, stored energy, hot and moving parts.
Have anything you intend to act on checked by a trained person against the manufacturer's own procedure for your vehicle. Nothing here replaces that procedure.