Cause
Accident damage to high voltage components
An impact has damaged part of the high-voltage system — a cable, a connector, the battery enclosure, or the mountings holding any of them.
This cause behaves differently from everything else in the corpus, because the right response to it is often to stop rather than to diagnose. Elsewhere a fault is something to investigate. Here the vehicle may be reporting that the barrier between several hundred volts and everything a person can touch is no longer intact.
The vehicle's own response is the thing to trust. Electrified cars open their contactors on a significant impact, deliberately and automatically, and refuse to re-energise until the system has been checked. A car that will not power up after a collision is usually behaving correctly, and getting it moving again is not the objective.
Two properties make it dangerous in ways an ordinary collision is not. A damaged pack can be at risk of thermal runaway hours or days later rather than at the moment of impact, which is why recovery guidance for electric vehicles involves quarantine distances and re-inspection rather than a tow and a shrug. And the damage that matters is often invisible — an underfloor pack struck by road debris, a jacking point used wrongly, a cable crushed where a subframe moved a few millimetres.
So the practical rule for an owner is short: after any impact near the battery or the orange cabling, do not investigate it, do not attempt to move the vehicle under its own power, and say a high-voltage fault is stored when calling for recovery. It changes how the vehicle must be handled and who may handle it.
For a workshop the cause is real and repairable, but it belongs to someone with high-voltage training, an insulation tester and the manufacturer's post-collision procedure — which typically requires inspection of the pack enclosure and an isolation measurement before the system may be re-energised at all.
Typically specialist work. Needs equipment or training most home workshops do not have.
Some of these codes mean you should stop driving
8 of the 15 codes this can cause indicate a fault where continuing to drive risks damage or is unsafe. Which one you have matters more than the cause does — read the code's own page before deciding.
Codes this can cause (15)
Codes where this is a likely explanation first, rather than merely a possible one.
- P0D23 Battery Charger A Output Shorted Likely for this code Stop driving Critical
- P0E2E Battery Charger A Fuse Likely for this code Stop driving Critical
- P0E2F High Voltage Fuse B Likely for this code Stop driving Critical
- P0E30 High Voltage Fuse C Likely for this code Stop driving Critical
- P0A0A High Voltage System Interlock Circuit A Stop driving Critical
- P0A0D High Voltage System Interlock Circuit A High Stop driving Critical
- P0A0E High Voltage System Interlock Circuit A Intermittent Stop driving Critical
- P0B37 High Voltage Service Disconnect Open Stop driving High
- P0DAA Battery Charging System Isolation Fault Critical
- P0E74 Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage Internal Isolation Fault Critical
- P0D15 Battery Charging System A High Voltage Interlock Circuit/Open High
- P0D16 Battery Charging System A High Voltage Interlock Circuit Performance Moderate
- P0D17 Battery Charging System A High Voltage Interlock Circuit Low Moderate
- P0D18 Battery Charging System A High Voltage Interlock Circuit High Moderate
- P0D19 Battery Charging System A High Voltage Interlock Circuit Intermittent/Erratic Moderate
Information, not instruction
CarGeek is a reference, not a service manual. Its pages are written from public sources and from what other people have found, never from a manufacturer's own service information, so they can be wrong or incomplete for your particular vehicle. Some of what they describe carries real risk: high voltage, fuel under pressure, stored energy, hot and moving parts.
Have anything you intend to act on checked by a trained person against the manufacturer's own procedure for your vehicle. Nothing here replaces that procedure.
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