Cause
The commonest thing genuinely wrong with an electrical circuit, and the reason this appears on more codes in the corpus than anything else. A module can only report what it measures, and a connection that has corroded, backed out of its housing or lost tension in its terminal changes what it measures — usually intermittently, which is why the fault comes and goes with weather, temperature or vibration.
Because it is attached to most of the corpus, it is not a diagnosis on its own. It is the thing to rule out before buying the part a code names. Unlatch the connector and look for green or white deposits, terminals that have pushed back into the housing, and a latch that was never properly clicked home.
Typically an easy fix. Often worth checking before paying anyone to look.
198 of the 3,308 codes this can cause indicate a fault where continuing to drive risks damage or is unsafe. Which one you have matters more than the cause does — read the code's own page before deciding.
Codes where this is a likely explanation first, rather than merely a possible one.
CarGeek is a reference, not a service manual. Its pages are written from public sources and from what other people have found, never from a manufacturer's own service information, so they can be wrong or incomplete for your particular vehicle. Some of what they describe carries real risk: high voltage, fuel under pressure, stored energy, hot and moving parts.
Have anything you intend to act on checked by a trained person against the manufacturer's own procedure for your vehicle. Nothing here replaces that procedure.
A multimeter measures what is there. It does not measure what a circuit can deliver, and almost every wasted afternoon in automotive electrics lives in the gap between those two th...
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