Symptom
Electric window not working
One window stops responding, works from one switch but not the other, or moves only downwards. Which of those it is narrows the fault immediately: a window that works from the driver's master switch but not its own points at the door switch, and the reverse points at the wiring in the door hinge — the loom there flexes every time the door opens and is where broken wires collect. A window that only inches up after the battery has been disconnected is usually not broken at all and needs its travel re-taught.
Also described as: window wont go up, window not working, electric window stuck, window switch not working, window motor not working, شیشه بالابر کار نمیکند, شیشه بالا نمیاید, ventanilla no sube, elevalunas no funciona, elevalunas no sube, vidrio electrico no sube, ventana electrica no funciona, الزجاج الكهربائي لا يطلع, الشباك ما يشتغل, زجاج السيارة معطل
What this usually means
Which of those it is narrows the fault immediately: a window that works from the driver's master switch but not its own points at the door switch, and the reverse points at the wiring in the door hinge — the loom there flexes every time the door opens and is where broken wires collect.
That is a two-second test that removes most of the diagnosis, and it is worth doing before anything is dismantled.
A window that only inches up after the battery has been disconnected is usually not broken at all and needs its travel re-taught. Anti-pinch systems learn the window's top and bottom positions, and a module that has lost them refuses to run the window at full speed in case something is in the way. The relearn is usually holding the switch up for a few seconds after the window reaches the top, and it is in the handbook.
A window that moves slowly or stops part-way points at the regulator or the motor — worn guides, a frayed cable on a cable-type regulator, or a motor drawing more current as its brushes wear. A crunching or grinding while it moves is the regulator, and those fail progressively rather than suddenly.
A window that drops into the door is a broken regulator cable or a clip that has released, and it is not repairable by adjustment.
And if the mirror on the same door has also stopped, the loom is the answer — the same flexible boot carries both, and repairing it fixes both.
Working through it
| What you find | Likely cause | How to confirm it | What fixes it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Works from the master switch but not its own | That door's own switch | This two-second test isolates the switch outright. No dismantling needed to reach it. | Renew or clean the switch. Contacts are frequently just dirty. |
| Works from its own switch but not the master | The master switch, or the wiring between it and that door — usually the flexible boot | The reverse test names the other half. Check whether the mirror on that door also fails. | Repair the loom inside the boot, or renew the master switch. |
| Only inches up after a battery disconnection | Anti-pinch travel limits lost — not broken | Establish the timing against the battery work. This is normal and expected behaviour. | Run the relearn — usually holding the switch up for a few seconds at the top. It is in the handbook. |
| Slow, stopping part-way, or crunching | The regulator or motor — worn guides, a frayed cable, or worn brushes | Listen while it moves. Grinding is mechanical; a click with no movement is electrical. | Renew the regulator and motor as an assembly on most vehicles. |
| Glass dropped into the door | A broken regulator cable or a released clip | Not adjustable. The door trim has to come off regardless. | Renew the regulator. Secure the glass before driving so it cannot fall further. |
| Mirror on the same door also dead | The door loom in the flexible boot — one repair for both | Two functions on one door is the signature of the loom rather than the components. | Repair the loom with enough slack to flex properly. |
-
Works from the master switch but not its own
- Likely cause
- That door's own switch
- How to confirm it
- This two-second test isolates the switch outright. No dismantling needed to reach it.
- What fixes it
- Renew or clean the switch. Contacts are frequently just dirty.
-
Works from its own switch but not the master
- Likely cause
- The master switch, or the wiring between it and that door — usually the flexible boot
- How to confirm it
- The reverse test names the other half. Check whether the mirror on that door also fails.
- What fixes it
- Repair the loom inside the boot, or renew the master switch.
-
Only inches up after a battery disconnection
- Likely cause
- Anti-pinch travel limits lost — not broken
- How to confirm it
- Establish the timing against the battery work. This is normal and expected behaviour.
- What fixes it
- Run the relearn — usually holding the switch up for a few seconds at the top. It is in the handbook.
-
Slow, stopping part-way, or crunching
- Likely cause
- The regulator or motor — worn guides, a frayed cable, or worn brushes
- How to confirm it
- Listen while it moves. Grinding is mechanical; a click with no movement is electrical.
- What fixes it
- Renew the regulator and motor as an assembly on most vehicles.
-
Glass dropped into the door
- Likely cause
- A broken regulator cable or a released clip
- How to confirm it
- Not adjustable. The door trim has to come off regardless.
- What fixes it
- Renew the regulator. Secure the glass before driving so it cannot fall further.
-
Mirror on the same door also dead
- Likely cause
- The door loom in the flexible boot — one repair for both
- How to confirm it
- Two functions on one door is the signature of the loom rather than the components.
- What fixes it
- Repair the loom with enough slack to flex properly.
Codes that produce this symptom (14)
Listed with the codes that most typically present this way first — the likeliest place to start.
- U0222 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor A Typical of this code Low
- U0223 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor B Typical of this code Low
- U0226 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor E Typical of this code Low
- U0227 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor F Typical of this code Low
- U0228 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor G Typical of this code Low
- U0523 Invalid Data Received From Door Window Motor A Typical of this code Low
- U0525 Invalid Data Received From Door Window Motor C Typical of this code Low
- U0526 Invalid Data Received From Door Window Motor D Typical of this code Low
- U0527 Invalid Data Received From Door Window Motor E Typical of this code Low
- U0528 Invalid Data Received From Door Window Motor F Typical of this code Low
- U0529 Invalid Data Received From Door Window Motor G Typical of this code Low
- U0224 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor C Low
- U0225 Lost Communication With Door Window Motor D Low
- U0524 Invalid Data Received From Door Window Motor B Low
Information, not instruction
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Have anything you intend to act on checked by a trained person against the manufacturer's own procedure for your vehicle. Nothing here replaces that procedure.
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