U0167: Блок управления иммобилайзером — потеряна связь
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The car will not start, or will start and stop again after a second or two. That is the security system doing exactly what it is supposed to do, not a broken engine.
Your key carries a chip that the car reads and confirms before it will let the engine run. This code means the computer doing that confirmation has stopped talking to the rest of the car — so nothing has confirmed your key, and from the car's point of view that looks exactly like somebody trying to steal it. Refusing to start is the correct answer.
Two free things to try before anything else.
Try your spare key. If the car starts on the spare, the problem is the first key — often just its battery or a damaged chip — and that is a very cheap fix.
Then think about whether an alarm, tracker or immobiliser has ever been fitted after the car was built, including by a previous owner. These are almost always wired into exactly this circuit, and a poor installation or a failed unit is one of the commonest causes.
And the important one: do not let this be diagnosed as a fuel or ignition problem. A car that cranks and runs for two seconds looks exactly like fuel starvation, and people have paid for fuel pumps, injectors and sensors before anyone read the network codes. If this code is stored, say so first.
If a module does have to be replaced, it must be programmed to your car and your keys re-learned. A second-hand one will not work — it belongs to another vehicle.
Что означает этот код
The immobiliser module has stopped being heard from. The general reasoning is at U0100, and U0426 covers the same module reporting implausibly instead.
This is one of the corpus's rare codes where the vehicle's correct behaviour is to refuse to work, and understanding why removes most of the frustration.
An immobiliser exists to make a vehicle useless to somebody without its key. The key carries a transponder; a coil around the ignition or the start button reads it; the immobiliser confirms it and tells the engine module it may run. All three have to agree, every time.
So a silent immobiliser is, from the vehicle's point of view, exactly what an attempted theft looks like. Nothing has confirmed the key. Starting anyway would defeat the entire purpose of the system, so the vehicle does the only correct thing and does not start — or starts for two seconds and stops, which is a deliberate signature rather than a fuelling fault.
Which gives the single most important instruction on this page: do not let this be diagnosed as fuel or ignition. A crank-no-start with a two-second run is enormously more likely to be this than a fuel pump, and the corpus's standing example is a vehicle that has had a pump, injectors and a crank sensor fitted before anybody read the network codes.
Two free tests come first, in this order.
Try the spare key. It costs nothing and separates the key from the vehicle in one attempt. A vehicle that starts on the spare has a key problem, not a module problem — a dead transponder battery on some designs, or a damaged transponder.
Then look at where the reader coil lives. On a keyed ignition it is a ring around the barrel, and its wiring is disturbed by steering lock work, column shroud removal, and every aftermarket alarm installation.
And that last is worth naming as a leading cause. An aftermarket alarm or tracker is very often spliced into the immobiliser circuit, because that is where a thief-deterrent belongs — so a poor installation, a corroded splice, or a device that has failed leaves the vehicle unable to confirm its own key. Mention any such device, including one a previous owner had fitted.
Finally, a warning about replacement. An immobiliser module is married to the vehicle and to its keys. A second-hand one arrives married to a different car and will not accept these keys; replacement means programming, and on many vehicles the keys have to be re-learned at the same time.
Вероятные причины
Начните отсюда
- Некачественный монтаж сторонней сигнализации или иммобилайзера · ремонт средней сложности
- Разъём окислен или неплотно посажен · простой ремонт
- Перегорел предохранитель или пропало питание · простой ремонт
- Неисправная антенная рамка иммобилайзера · ремонт средней сложности
Встречается реже
- Б/у блок привязан к другому автомобилю · ремонт для специалиста
- Проводка шины данных повреждена · ремонт средней сложности
Симптомы
Задействованные компоненты
Информация, а не инструкция
CarGeek — это справочник, а не руководство по ремонту. Его страницы составлены по открытым источникам и по опыту других людей, но не по сервисной документации производителя, поэтому для вашего конкретного автомобиля они могут быть неверными или неполными. Часть описанного связана с реальной опасностью: высокое напряжение, топливо под давлением, накопленная энергия, горячие и движущиеся детали.
Всё, по чему вы собираетесь действовать, сначала проверьте с человеком, имеющим техническую подготовку, по собственной процедуре производителя для вашего автомобиля. Ничто здесь не заменяет эту процедуру.
Опыт сообщества
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Об этом пока ничего не опубликовано. Всё, что вы выяснили, стоит записать — даже тупиковый путь сэкономит кому-то те же полдня.
Что делает такой отчёт полезным:
- Автомобиль — марка, модель, год и двигатель. Одна и та же неисправность ведёт себя на каждом по-своему.
- Что вы измерили, а не только что заменили.
- Что действительно помогло — или что не помогло ничто, это тоже стоит знать.
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