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Symptom

Binding or juddering when turning at low speed

The car shudders, hops or feels like it is fighting itself on full lock — in a car park, at a junction, or reversing into a space — and is fine in a straight line. On a four-wheel-drive vehicle this is usually transmission wind-up: front and rear axles turn at genuinely different speeds through a corner, and a system stuck in a locked mode has no way to let them. It is not gentle on the drivetrain, so it is worth resolving rather than driving around. Distinct from four-wheel drive that will not engage — this is the opposite fault, and the one people rarely realise is a fault at all.

Also described as: juddering on full lock, binding when turning, car hops when turning, shudders in car park, transmission wind up, stuck in four wheel drive, هنگام دور زدن قفل میکند, در فرمان کامل تکان میخورد, salta al girar despacio, vibra al girar a poca velocidad, saltos al maniobrar, نطات عند اللف ببطء, اهتزاز عند المناورة, شد عند الدوران البطيء

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Some causes mean you should stop driving

3 of the 12 codes that produce this symptom indicate a fault where continuing to drive risks damage or is unsafe. If the symptom is sudden or severe, treat it as one of those until a scan says otherwise.

What this usually means

This is the fault people rarely realise is a fault at all, because the car drives perfectly in a straight line and only misbehaves in a car park.

The mechanism is transmission wind-up. Through a corner the front and rear axles genuinely travel different distances, so they must be allowed to turn at different speeds. A system stuck in a locked mode has no way to let them, so the driveline loads up until something slips — a tyre skipping on the tarmac, which is the judder you feel — and then loads up again. It is not gentle on the drivetrain, and it is worth resolving rather than driving around.

On a part-time four-wheel-drive vehicle, this is normal when four-wheel drive is engaged on a high-grip surface, and the fix is to select two-wheel drive. That is the case to exclude first, because it is not a fault at all — those systems are designed for loose surfaces where the tyres can slip harmlessly.

When it happens with two-wheel drive selected, the system has not disengaged. The transfer case actuator has stuck, a viscous or clutch-type coupling is seized, or an electronically controlled coupling is being commanded when it should not be.

Two other causes produce a similar feel and should be separated. A limited-slip or locking differential with the wrong or degraded oil chatters on full lock, and the fix is the correct fluid with its friction modifier. And on a front-wheel-drive car, a worn outer constant-velocity joint clicks rhythmically on full lock — a distinct sound rather than a whole-car judder, and a completely different repair.

Working through it

  • Four-wheel drive is selected, surface is dry tarmac

    Likely cause
    Not a fault on a part-time system — the axles cannot turn at different speeds and the driveline winds up
    How to confirm it
    Select two-wheel drive and repeat the manoeuvre. If it goes, the system is working as designed.
    What fixes it
    Use four-wheel drive on loose or slippery surfaces only. No repair.
  • Two-wheel drive selected and it still binds

    Likely cause
    The system has not disengaged — a stuck transfer case actuator or a seized coupling
    How to confirm it
    Read the transfer case module's live range position against what is selected. A mismatch is the finding.
    What fixes it
    Free or renew the actuator, or repair the coupling. Do not keep driving it — wind-up damages the driveline.
  • Chatter on full lock on a vehicle with a limited-slip or locking differential

    Likely cause
    Wrong or degraded differential oil — the friction modifier the clutches need has gone
    How to confirm it
    Establish which oil is specified and what was last used. Chatter is the characteristic complaint of a missing friction modifier.
    What fixes it
    Drain and refill with the correct oil including its friction modifier where the manufacturer specifies one.
  • Rhythmic clicking on full lock, front-wheel drive

    Likely cause
    A worn outer constant-velocity joint — a different fault with a distinct sound
    How to confirm it
    Listen rather than feel: clicking that speeds up with wheel rotation, loudest on full lock. Check the boot for splits and grease throw.
    What fixes it
    Renew the joint or driveshaft. Renew the boot early where it is split but the joint is still good.
  • Binding after an electronically controlled coupling was worked on or its fluid changed

    Likely cause
    The coupling is being commanded when it should not be, or the wrong fluid is in it
    How to confirm it
    Read the coupling's live engagement command against conditions, and confirm what fluid went in.
    What fixes it
    Correct the fluid and recalibrate. These couplings are specific about fluid and about service intervals.
  • Binding with mismatched or unevenly worn tyres

    Likely cause
    Different rolling radii forcing a permanent speed difference the driveline must absorb
    How to confirm it
    Compare tread depth and size across all four. A significant difference is enough on a permanent four-wheel-drive vehicle.
    What fixes it
    Match the tyres. On many four-wheel-drive vehicles this is a maintenance requirement rather than a preference.

Codes that produce this symptom (12)

Listed with the codes that most typically present this way first — the likeliest place to start.

Information, not instruction

CarGeek is a reference, not a service manual. Its pages are written from public sources and from what other people have found, never from a manufacturer's own service information, so they can be wrong or incomplete for your particular vehicle. Some of what they describe carries real risk: high voltage, fuel under pressure, stored energy, hot and moving parts.

Have anything you intend to act on checked by a trained person against the manufacturer's own procedure for your vehicle. Nothing here replaces that procedure.

Others with this symptom

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What makes one worth reading:

  • The car — make, model, year and engine. The same fault behaves differently on each.
  • What you measured, not only what you replaced.
  • What actually fixed it — or that nothing did, which is worth knowing too.

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