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Brake Caliper

The clamp that squeezes the pads against the disc. Hydraulic pressure pushes one or more pistons; on a sliding caliper the body then moves on its pins to pull the outer pad in.

Most caliper faults are seizure rather than failure, and they come from the two places it has to move: the piston in its bore, and the slide pins in their bushes. Corrosion in either leaves the brake partly applied or partly unapplied.

A dragging caliper is the failure worth recognising early. The brake never fully releases, so it heats continuously — which fades the brakes, cooks the fluid, warps the disc and destroys the pad on that corner. The signs are a hot wheel after a drive, a smell, a pull to one side, and fuel consumption that has crept up.

A collapsed flexible hose imitates it exactly. The hose's inner lining can lift and act as a one-way valve, letting pressure in and not out. The tell is that cracking the bleed nipple releases the brake instantly — which means the caliper was never the problem.

Slide pins are maintenance, not a repair. Cleaning and greasing them at every pad change prevents most of this.

Also known as: caliper, brake calliper, front caliper, rear caliper, sliding caliper, brake clamp

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Other components in Braking, Steering and Suspension

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CarGeek is a reference, not a service manual. Its pages are written from public sources and from what other people have found, never from a manufacturer's own service information, so they can be wrong or incomplete for your particular vehicle. Some of what they describe carries real risk: high voltage, fuel under pressure, stored energy, hot and moving parts.

Have anything you intend to act on checked by a trained person against the manufacturer's own procedure for your vehicle. Nothing here replaces that procedure.

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