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Symptom

Rough when in gear at a standstill but smooth in neutral

At a junction with the brake held the whole car shakes, and slipping it into neutral settles it immediately. That difference is a diagnosis on its own: the engine has not changed between the two, so the fault is not in how it is running but in what is holding it. With drive selected an automatic is pushing against the brakes through the torque converter, which loads the mountings hard and steadily — so a mounting that has collapsed, or an active one that has stopped being controlled, transmits into the cabin what it used to absorb. Worth reporting separately from a rough idle, which is rough in neutral too.

Also described as: shakes in drive but not neutral, vibrates at traffic lights, shudders when stopped in gear, smooth in neutral rough in drive, shaking when stationary in gear, در دنده میلرزد در خلاص نه, پشت چراغ قرمز لرزش دارد, vibra con marcha puesta, tiembla parado en drive, vibra parado con marcha metida, اهتزاز والجير على السواقة, ترتج وأنا واقف على الدرايف, رجة عند الوقوف مع الغيار

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Some causes mean you should stop driving

1 of the 22 codes that produce this symptom indicate a fault where continuing to drive risks damage or is unsafe. If the symptom is sudden or severe, treat it as one of those until a scan says otherwise.

What this usually means

This complaint arrives already half-diagnosed, and it is worth telling the driver so. The engine does not know which gear is selected — it is running identically in both cases — so a difference between neutral and drive cannot be a running fault. What changes is the load path: with drive selected against the brakes, the engine is pushing steadily into a torque converter that cannot go anywhere, and that load is carried by the mountings.

A mounting is a filter, and this is the condition it is least able to hide a failure in. At a standstill in gear the load is high, steady and one-directional — exactly the case a collapsed rubber mounting or a hydraulic mounting that has lost its fluid cannot absorb. So an entirely healthy engine transmits into the cabin what it used to have taken out.

Active mountings add a second failure that looks identical and is not a mounting at all. Many modern cars fit mountings whose stiffness is controlled — by vacuum or electrically — and softened deliberately at idle. If the control fails, the mounting stays in its stiff state and the car shakes at a standstill while behaving perfectly on the move. That is a control fault with a cheap fix, and replacing the mounting will appear to work while leaving the control still broken.

The confirmation is free and should be done before anything is ordered: select neutral and compare. If the shake goes, stop looking at the engine.

Working through it

  • Shakes in drive with the brake held, settles instantly in neutral

    Likely cause
    A mounting no longer absorbing the steady load — collapsed rubber, or a hydraulic mounting that has lost its fluid
    How to confirm it
    Compare the two directly. Inspect each mounting for splits, collapse and oily residue, and watch engine movement as drive is selected.
    What fixes it
    Renew the failed mounting. Inspect the others while access is open — they are the same age.
  • Shakes at a standstill on a car with active mountings, smooth on the move

    Likely cause
    The mounting is stuck in its stiff state because its control has failed, not because the mounting has
    How to confirm it
    Check the vacuum supply or electrical control to the mounting, and command it on a scan tool where the car supports it.
    What fixes it
    Repair the control — a perished vacuum line or a failed solenoid. Renewing the mounting hides the fault rather than fixing it.
  • Rough in neutral as well, just less noticeable

    Likely cause
    A running fault after all, amplified by load rather than caused by it
    How to confirm it
    Listen in neutral with the bonnet up rather than judging from the seat. Read misfire counters and trims.
    What fixes it
    Diagnose as a rough idle. Mountings will not fix a cylinder that is not contributing.
  • Started after engine, gearbox or subframe work

    Likely cause
    A mounting misaligned or not torqued in its settled position
    How to confirm it
    Retrace the work. A mounting tightened with the engine hanging sits pre-loaded and transmits far more than one settled first.
    What fixes it
    Slacken, settle the engine on its mountings, and re-torque to specification.
  • Accompanied by a clunk when selecting drive or reverse

    Likely cause
    Excessive movement — a badly failed mounting, or driveline backlash from worn joints
    How to confirm it
    Watch engine movement as drive is selected against the brake. Large movement points at the mounting; a clunk with little movement points at the driveline.
    What fixes it
    Renew the mounting, or the worn joint the movement names.

Codes that produce this symptom (22)

Listed with the codes that most typically present this way first — the likeliest place to start.

Information, not instruction

CarGeek is a reference, not a service manual. Its pages are written from public sources and from what other people have found, never from a manufacturer's own service information, so they can be wrong or incomplete for your particular vehicle. Some of what they describe carries real risk: high voltage, fuel under pressure, stored energy, hot and moving parts.

Have anything you intend to act on checked by a trained person against the manufacturer's own procedure for your vehicle. Nothing here replaces that procedure.

Others with this symptom

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What makes one worth reading:

  • The car — make, model, year and engine. The same fault behaves differently on each.
  • What you measured, not only what you replaced.
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