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Symptom

The fault comes and goes

It happens, then it does not, and nothing you do reliably brings it back — the warning clears itself, or the garage cannot make it appear. This is a finding rather than a frustration, and it points somewhere specific. A part that has failed stays failed; a fault that comes and goes is usually a connection that is only sometimes a connection — a corroded pin, a chafed wire touching a bracket, a joint that opens as things warm and expand. That is why the codes for these end in Intermittent rather than High or Low. Write down what the car was doing each time it happened; the pattern nobody can reproduce on a ramp is often obvious across three notes.

Also described as: comes and goes, intermittent fault, happens sometimes, not every time, fault disappears, cant reproduce it, random fault, گاهی هست گاهی نیست, ایراد مقطعی است, خودش خوب میشود, falla a veces, va y viene, fallo intermitente, المشكلة تروح وتجي, عطل متقطع, أحيانا تحصل وأحيانا لا

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Some causes mean you should stop driving

25 of the 359 codes that produce this symptom indicate a fault where continuing to drive risks damage or is unsafe. If the symptom is sudden or severe, treat it as one of those until a scan says otherwise.

What this usually means

This is a finding rather than a frustration, and it points somewhere specific. A part that has failed stays failed. A fault that comes and goes is usually a connection that is only sometimes a connection — a corroded pin, a chafed wire touching a bracket, a joint that opens as things warm and expand. That is why the codes for these end in Intermittent rather than High or Low.

The whole difficulty is that the car is behaving perfectly when somebody looks at it, so the method is to stop waiting and start provoking. Workshop practice has four ways to do that, and each targets a different cause:

  • The wiggle test. Flex the harness and connectors by hand while watching live data or a meter set to record minimum and maximum. A reading that jumps as you move one section has just named it. Some scan tools have a dedicated wiggle mode that alerts on a dropout so you can watch your hands instead of the screen.
  • Heat. A heat gun on a low setting, about 15 cm away, reproduces the classic hot-soak failure — a joint that opens as metal expands, a cracked solder joint, a semiconductor that stops at temperature.
  • Cold. Freeze spray chills one component at a time to around −50 °C. A fault that disappears when a specific part is chilled has been localised precisely.
  • Water. A hose or spray bottle, one area at a time, for anything that only misbehaves in the wet.

Where none of that provokes it, record instead of chase. A data logger left running while the car is driven normally captures what happens at the moment it happens — and the freeze-frame data attached to the stored code is the same evidence for free, which is why clearing a code before reading its frame throws away the only record anybody was going to get.

And write down what the car was doing each time. The pattern nobody can reproduce on a ramp is often obvious across three notes.

Working through it

  • Codes end in 'Intermittent' rather than High, Low or Open

    Likely cause
    A connection that is only sometimes a connection — corrosion, a backed-out pin, or a wire broken inside intact insulation
    How to confirm it
    Wiggle-test the harness and connectors while watching live data, or a meter recording minimum and maximum. A reading that jumps as one section moves names it.
    What fixes it
    Repair the connection and secure the harness clear of what was chafing it. Renewing the component the code names usually changes nothing.
  • Appears after twenty minutes or on a long run, clears after standing

    Likely cause
    Thermal — a joint opening as metal expands, or a semiconductor failing at temperature
    How to confirm it
    Heat gun on low, about 15 cm away, on one suspect area at a time while monitoring the signal. Reproducing it deliberately is faster than waiting for it.
    What fixes it
    Repair the joint or renew the component the heat test implicates. A cold bench test on this fault passes and proves nothing.
  • Present when the car is cold or in cold weather, gone once warm

    Likely cause
    The opposite thermal case — a joint that closes as it expands, or a component out of tolerance cold
    How to confirm it
    Freeze spray one component at a time while monitoring. A fault that appears or clears as a specific part is chilled has been localised.
    What fixes it
    Repair or renew what the cold test names. Both thermal directions are real and they need opposite tools.
  • Follows rain, washing or damp mornings

    Likely cause
    Damp bridging two pins, or corrosion that is only a bad connection when wet
    How to confirm it
    Spray one area at a time with a hose or bottle while monitoring live data. This is one of the few faults a driver can help reproduce on a driveway.
    What fixes it
    Dry, clean and seal the connector, and repair whatever route lets the water in. See the wet-weather entry in this vocabulary.
  • Nothing provokes it in a workshop

    Likely cause
    Not absent — merely not reproducible on a ramp, which is a different thing
    How to confirm it
    Fit a data logger and drive the car normally until it happens, then read the log around the event. Read stored freeze-frame data before clearing anything.
    What fixes it
    Repair what the log or frame names. This is the case where the driver's written notes are worth more than any bench test.
  • Several unrelated systems affected at the same moments

    Likely cause
    Supply or earth rather than any of the named systems — modules misbehave together when voltage sags
    How to confirm it
    Voltage-drop test the main earths and supply under load rather than at rest. A resting continuity check passes a joint that fails under current.
    What fixes it
    Remake the earth or repair the supply, then clear and re-scan. Only what returns is real.

Codes that produce this symptom (359)

Listed with the codes that most typically present this way first — the likeliest place to start.

Information, not instruction

CarGeek is a reference, not a service manual. Its pages are written from public sources and from what other people have found, never from a manufacturer's own service information, so they can be wrong or incomplete for your particular vehicle. Some of what they describe carries real risk: high voltage, fuel under pressure, stored energy, hot and moving parts.

Have anything you intend to act on checked by a trained person against the manufacturer's own procedure for your vehicle. Nothing here replaces that procedure.

Others with this symptom

Be the first to write this up

Nothing posted about this yet. Whatever you found is worth writing down — even a dead end saves someone the same afternoon.

What makes one worth reading:

  • The car — make, model, year and engine. The same fault behaves differently on each.
  • What you measured, not only what you replaced.
  • What actually fixed it — or that nothing did, which is worth knowing too.

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